We offer water tests for buyers and homeowners who use a well or a spring – The EPA says you should test for bacteria at least once a year!
We also offer well chlorinations if your water has bacteria, well inspections to make sure your well is up to code and protecting your water, and well repairs.
Get a water test and a well inspection together and get $35 off!
Serving the following WNC counties: Buncombe, Madison, Yancey, Mitchell, McDowell, Rutherford, Polk, Henderson, Transylvania, Haywood, Jackson, Swain, Macon, Burke – ALL FOR THE SAME PRICE! (no more trip fees!)
Call or email us today to get your services scheduled!
Sometimes when a drainfield is failing, the county will approve a second drainfield with a switch (technically a bull valve) between the two drainfields so the original one can dry out and then the homeowner can switch it so the original one is getting effluent and the new one has a chance to dry out. And they just repeat this cycle.
Here’s our team installing a second drainfield.
If your yard has wet spots that smell like sewage over the drainfield, give us a call and let us help you out.
This warm weather has us looking forward to spring and summer: gardening, enjoying the outdoors, having guests visit, and more. A septic inspection can help prevent messy, smelly septic issues from popping up and ruining your summer plans.
If you don’t know where your septic system is, make sure you locate it before adding a garden, deck, shed, playground, etc.
Its important to have your septic system inspected periodically to make sure its functioning as intended, see if its ready to be pumped, make sure its structurally sound, etc.
Reminder: State law says you should have your septic tank checked periodically. It also says if either compartment has a solids level of 33% or more, the tank should be pumped. A good rule of thumb for pumping is every 3 to 5 years, and to clean your filter every year.
Get $25 off a septic inspection ordered on/between March 3, 2022 and March 8, 2022.
Cleanouts are about 4″ across (usually with a twist off cap) that are installed on the line between the house and the tank.
They are for cleaning the line – they do not provide direct access to the tank. We do sometimes use them to help locate the tank. Sometimes they can be used to pump septage out of the line between the house and the tank, but since you can’t directly access the tank and the inlet line is at the top of the tank you *cannot* pump out the tank through a cleanout.
“Pump Port” – can be used for pumping, but is not best practice
Pump ports were very popular for a period of time (before Access Risers) for tanks that were deep. They are a pipe, usually about 8″ across with a cap that are stuck straight through the tank lid or top.
These can be pumped through, but if the lids are accessible and less than 3ft, we highly recommend pumping from the lids – pump ports have no visibility into the tank, no way to clean the filter, and limit the maneuverability of the hose – meaning the pump is less thorough.
Tank Lids & Access Risers – best practice
Tank lids are usually found on either end of the tank (one above the inlet, one above the outlet). (See this section for information about uncovering tank lids.)
For concrete tanks, they are usually about 22 x 22 inches (though they can be other sizes); for plastic tanks and access risers, they are usually about 18″ across and are green plastic circles.
For access risers, the original lids are removed, the riser is put on over the existing hole, and a lid is put on at the top of the riser so that the lids is (closer to) ground level and easier to access.
For pumping, the lids provide maximum visibility so that we can see what is in the tank and maximum access so we can move the hose around and reach all the areas. This is the best choice if the lids are accessible and less than 3ft deep.
We get a lot more requests for septic inspections than we do well inspections but we find at least as many issues with wells. I think buyers and agents turn on the water in the house and go “oh there is water, the well must be fine” and that is Not Necessarily True.
We frequently find minor issues: sample ports and shutoff valves that don’t work or are broken, broken pressure gauges, unsealed wire holes, etc.
The bigger issue is that pressure systems can still produce water even if they are beginning to wear out.
Your pressure system should have a pressure gauge, a pressure switch, and a pressure tank. This system controls your pump – so if its not working right, it can run down your pump. Replacing the whole pressure system usually runs about $600-$1,000; but, replacing a pump usually starts at a few thousand and goes up based on well depth, if the electrical or piping needs replaced, etc.
A well inspection checks for signs that the pressure system is not working properly.
Homeowners should test their well water on a regular basis. Well (and especially spring water) can change over time, even suddenly. It can be effected by environmental factors such as weather, age/condition of well/spring components, and sometimes it just changes for no discernable reason.
Total Coliform and E. coli can get into wells/springs and build up slowly over time. For people whose immune systems work properly, their body will build up a resistance to the bacteria.
But if someone comes in from city water, or if someone has immune system issues, it can make them sick as their immune system does not know how to fight it. (See section on Total Coliform for more information).
Many buyers want to test it as part of their “Due Diligence” so they can be aware of any issues or because they need to for the mortgage. Often homeowners will need to test when they refinance.